Cafe Cats, Belgian Beers and Dutch Masters – This is why I moved to Europe

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Mention Amsterdam to those unfamiliar with the city and chances are you’ll hear them mention “pot” and “prostitution” in their opening breath. It’s sad really, when there’s so much more to Amsterdam and indeed the Netherlands than its unwholesome reputation suggests. I’ve just wrapped up my second trip to the Dutch capital and to date have not stepped foot into a “coffeehouse” or taken a gander at the Red Light District. The truth is that outside heavily trodden tourists zones “coffeehouses” are much more discreet and pretty unremarkable from the exterior, so unless you’re actually seeking these places out, chances are you won’t notice them.

Amsterdam

“Eccentricities” aside, Amsterdam is one of those cities that leaves you Googling your way through pages of apartment listings and real estate ads. It’s just so gosh darn livable and it has reminded of why I moved across the pond to begin with. Just as I did on my first trip, I chose to stay just outside Amsterdam’s center to enjoy the city for what it really is, not what it’s advertised to be. Our hotel was a few blocks west of Leidseplein and within walking distance to the Rijksmuseum. While I enjoyed seeing all the remarkable masterworks from the Dutch Golden Age of painting and reveled in the opportunity to visit the Royal Palace of Amsterdam, the real pleasure came from visiting local restaurants, cafes and simply walking around town.

Painting in the Rijksmuseum

Thanks to a little internet research, I stumbled across a few great bars and restaurants that really summed up Amsterdam for me. The first was called Gollem Proeflokaal, which was just a few minutes from our hotel. Offering 20+ beers on tap and dozens more in bottled form, this tiny bar with dimmed lighting and generous wooden benches made me feel right at home. Gollem’s patrons were all Dutch, though the bar staff seemed to speak with more English fluency than I can claim. As we sat at a table sipping our beers and discussing our weekend options, we were greeted by the only member of the staff who couldn’t speak English, or Dutch for that matter. One of Gollem’s cats (yes, CATS) parked its caboose right next to mine and kept me company while I dined on Flemish stew and french fries.

Belgian Beers

Our special dinner guest.

The next night we visited a small street corner cafe called Toussaint on a quiet block of residential homes just outside of the Jordaan district.  It consisted of an impossibly small kitchen, a small grouping of candlelit tables and a chalkboard menu filled with the day’s specials in Dutch.  Our patient waiter was kind enough to go through and translate each dish on the list for use.  For the same price as dinner and drinks at the awful Zizzis (UK-based Italian chain restaurant . . . think Olive Garden), we enjoyed duck, seafood ravioli, desserts, wine and a beer all under twinkling candlelight.

image courtesy of http://www.bosboom-toussaint.nl

If I had to describe Amsterdam in one word I think it would be “calm”. The people seem calm and the cafes and bars are cozy. Walking down the city streets I encountered numerous mouthwatering independent shops selling everything from the little wooden toys I once had as a kid to quirky home furnishings and handmade odds and ends. Next to the sidewalks an endless stream of bicycles outfitted with wicker baskets whizz past and it all seemed so comfortable. I think I’d like to live here one day, but until then I am content with the fact that I’m just an hour’s flight away.

Historic Hiking in Gibraltar

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View of Gibraltar

On the surface, Gibraltar appears to be little more than a boozy, sun kissed British overseas territory.  Best known for its status as a tax haven, the tiny 2 square mile town consists of a myriad of crumbling housing estates and cobbled roads lined with shops hawking duty-free alcohol sprinkled in with a few British high street brands.  However, few of us tourists make the trek down here for just the town.  The towering Rock of Gibraltar is the territory’s main attraction and in addition to some of the best hiking I’ve ever experienced, it’s home to (in my opinion) a treasure trove of grossly underappreciated historic artifacts and features.

From a geographic perspective, Gibraltar sits at the southern tip of the European subcontinent and it is separated from Africa by the 9-mile wide Strait of Gibraltar.  In antiquity, this was considered (more or less) the end of the known world.  Providing access between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Gibraltar has long been a sought after spot for both strategic military and trade reasons.  Over millennia, a wide range of peoples and civilizations have made their mark on the rock.  An avid fan of ancient history, I made it my mission to take a gander at some of its older sites starting from 40,000 BCE and ending in the 1400s.

St. Michael’s Cave
St. Michael’s Cave has a very unassuming tunnel entrance that opens up into a dazzling display of limestone stalactites and stalagmites carved by rainwater over countless years.  This is the first significant cave I had ever visited and I was floored by how organic and beautiful it was.  The cave has received several mentions throughout history and is also known to have provided shelter to Neolithic peoples (approx. 20,000 years ago) and Neanderthals (approx. 40,000 years ago) as evidenced by the skulls, cave painting and bowls that they left behind.

St. Michael’s Cave

The Mediterranean Steps
Originally carved in the 18th century by the British as a means of traveling from one major defense point to another, the Mediterranean Steps scale nearly 200 meters of sheer limestone rock face.  The steps make up a popular hiking path today and offer absolutely stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and Spain’s Costa del Sol in the distance.  It also passes by several structures and tunnels made by soldiers both in the 18th century and during WWII.  The hike, however, is pretty challenging.  While most tourist choose to climb up (from Jew’s Gate to O’hara’s Battery), it’s probably easier to take them down in the opposite direction.

Well worth the hike: View of the Med Sea from the Med Steps

The Pillars of Hercules
In classical antiquity, the Pillars of Hercules consisted of the Rock of Gibraltar and a neighboring peak across the strait in Africa (the exact peak is up for debate).  At the crossroads between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, this was a crucial spot in the ancient world. It was mentioned by Plato and was settled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians, and even the Vandals .  Standing on Gibraltar’s peak and staring across the strait towards Africa put me through a bit of a time warp.  As the geographic features have not really changed since ancient times, I could have easily been standing on the same spot and sharing the same view as an early Phoenician did settler 3,000 years ago.

Pillars of Hercules — View of Africa

Moorish Castle
The Moors conquered the Iberian Peninsula around 700 AD, which subsequently led to a centuries-long power struggle for Gibraltar.  The origins of Gibraltar’s Moorish Castle date back to the 700s, but what stands today is a reconstruction from the Moors second time at Gibraltar’s helm in the 1400s.  Today, there is unfortunately not a whole lot left to the structure, but it still provides a glimpse into the region’s rocky past.

Moorish Castle with Barbary Ape in the Foreground

Hiking Review
As an added bonus to all this history, the scenery from Gibraltar’s hiking trails are second to none.  There are also plenty of barbary apes (macaques) and high-flying seagulls to keep you company during your walk.  The entire rock can be viewed in 1-day if you’re up to the challenge.  My boyfriend and I were able to get through most of it in 5-6 hours, though my legs are still feeling the effects of all that walking.
Trails crossing the rock are well paved and shared with vehicles.  The exception to this is the Mediterranean Steps.  They are incredibly steep, slippery and I would consider them to be dangerous if you aren’t in great shape. I would not recommend them for the elderly or younger children.

 

Though Gibraltar is a popular summertime destination, if you’re here to hike and see the historic sites on the rock I suggest coming in the cooler months.  The weather was perfect for hiking during my 2-day visit (early Feb) and I imagine the weather will stay cool for another few months or so.

Barbary Ape Taking in the View

Pertinent Information:
Getting to Gibraltar — 4 daily flights operate from London to Gibraltar (2x British Airways, 1x Easy Jet, 1x Monarch)
Getting to the Rock — Hike either towards Jew’s Gate or the Moorish Castle; Take the Cable Car (my recommendation); Take a Taxi

 

Tips and Advice for Planning Weekend Getaways

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Those precious two (and occasionally three) day spans of time when us 9-to-5-ers are unshackled from our desks make for wonderful opportunities to travel.  Weekend getaways should be a refreshing and revitalizing experience, not a stressful and strained ordeal.This, I’ve learned from experience.

Between spending years tantalizingly close to California and the last 19 months or so in London, I’ve more than dabbled in the weekend getaway department and discovered for myself what works and what doesn’t, and what is and isn’t worth it. So here goes:

Flight Times
Weekends always feel too short and those of us who are eager travellers sometimes pounce on the red-eye Friday night or super early Saturday morning flights.  This is a definite DON’T.  Friday night flights means one extra night in a hotel (cha-ching!), plus late night airport transfer which usually is in the form of a taxi (double cha-ching!) since most public transport does not run 24/7.  As for early morning flights, by the time you get to your destination you’ll be ready for a nap and chances are it will be too early to check into your hotel.

While it may seems like wasting away your Saturday, choosing a flight that leaves at a reasonable time means that you’ll arrive at your destination refreshed and awake.  Proper planning will ensure that you don’t waste too much time worrying about logistics and you can get started with your holiday.

Choose a Theme

Unless you’ve ventured into one of those one-stoplight towns, one weekend is not going to be enough to see everything in a city so matter how hard you try.  Instead, try to pick a theme for your trip and run with it.  For example, I chose architecture during my weekend trip to Barcelona, on Jersey Island it was nature and in Belgium it was food.  Picking a theme helps you choose what to fit into your two precious days and of course does not preclude you from adding in a few side items.

Architecture-Themed Weekend in Barcelona

Don’t get too wound up in not being able to see or experience everything you want.  You can always return to the destination again in the future and choose a different theme!

Pack Light

This one should really be a no-brainer considering there is an accessory called the weekend bag hanging around most department stores.  If you take a look at said weekend bag, it’s not all that large.  Basically, if it doesn’t fit into a moderately-sized backpack and purse (for the ladies . . .because let’s face it, we have more stuff), then leave it.  Pack the essentials like a clean pair of underoos and basic toiletry items, but try and keep it to not much more than that. Additionally, if you’ve got a wi-fi enabled smartphone and you’re not part of a secret government agency or spy ring, keep the laptop at home.  Your smartphone should be more than enough to check e-mails, maps, etc. whilst on your trip and the last thing you need is to find yourself or your partner wasting away a Saturday night watching adorable kittens on youtube.

Me with my 1 Backpack on a Nature-Themed Weekend on Jersey Island

Do your Due Diligence
Planning is one of those love it or hate it things.  Some people enjoy flying by the seat of their pants, while others are much happier creating a master plan or itinerary.  Between the two, I naturally fall on the side of planning, but I also recognize the need for a dose or spontaneity, especially when it comes to weekend getaways.  Planning a completely regimented weekend can make the break feel more like a chore, so my advice would be to pick out a few must-see/must-do items, and leave the rest to fate.  I’ve found that it is in these moments of pure, unbridled spontaneity that the best travel memories are made.

Turning a fleeting weekend into a full, enjoyable and stress-free weekend getaway is no small feat. However, if you front load the key travel and itinerary points (i.e. booking hotels, flights, major events/activities), this will help to relieve a lot of the usual worries.  From there, choose a theme, plan a few key activities around it and remember to remain flexible throughout the trip.  While this may not guarantee a problem-free weekend, it’s definitely a good start.