Bird's Eye View of Duesseldorf

Usually when one thinks of Germany in terms of tourism, Berlin and Munich immediately spring to mind.  As lovely as these two cities are, it is in my opinion that they each represent separate ends of the cultural spectrum in Germany.  On one end you have Berlin, a city which has risen from the ashes of a dark history and has transformed itself both physically and mentally into a vibrant, young, very much modern metropolis that is quickly becoming one of the best capital cities in Europe.  At the other end of the spectrum lies Munich, Bavaria’s crown jewel, and well known for old-world charms, lederhosen as well as the infamous Oktoberfest. Though both Berlin and Munich offer much in terms of German culture, I opted to travel to the state of Nordrhein-Westfalen for my May bank holiday weekend instead.

Situated in Northwestern Germany, Nordrhein-Westfalen is the most populous and economically active region in the country.  Within this prosperous state lies the mighty Rhine River – the lifeblood of the region for thousands of years and along its banks sits many of Germany’s largest city’s.Though not particularly laden with world-class museums or historic buildings (most cities in this region were effectively destroyed in WWII), cities along the Rhine offer a window into the middle of Germany’s cultural spectrum.

On our trip, we visited Duesseldorf and Cologne – two of the largest cities in the region, with the former being the capital of Nordrhein-Westfalen.  Duesseldorf is a distinctly modern city with a somewhat kitschy old town (altstadt) area that has mainly been rebuilt due to its destruction during the Second World War.  Strolling through the old town to reach the river promenade, we ran into the unmistakable smells of German bread, pretzels and other delectable baked goodies.

German Bread

German Bread

Passing old town with pretzels in-hand, we walked to a dock along the riverfront and purchased tickets for a short Rhine cruise to the small suburb of Kaiserswerth, home to ancient castle ruins – a site which is quite prevalent along the Rhine.  The boat ride was short, sweet and full of free beer. We took this opportunity to sample “Alt Bier”, Duesseldorf’s locally brewed concoction of which they are quite proud.  Not being a beer person, I’m not in the position to provide a review of the beer other than the fact that it is drinkable.

Entrance to Emperor Barbarossa’s Castle in Kaiserswerth is free, and patrons are allowed to explore the premises as they wish.  The castle ruins are in a pretty severe state of ruin and require a bit of imagination.  Nevertheless, it’s nice to see if you’re in the area.  Kaiserswerth itself is a quaint little village that has all the charm which Duesseldorf’s Altstadt lacks and is a great place to have a traditional Rhineland meal.

Dog in Kaiserswerth

With enough booze and hearty German food in our bellies to last us quite a while, we hopped on the S-Bahn back to downtown Duesseldorf and took a walk up the river towards the Rhineturm .
The Rhineturm is a large tower and observation deck located about a 15 – 20min walk from Duesseldorf’s Altstadt.  Entrance to the tower is only 3 Euros and it boasts some of the best views in the state (see below)

View from the Rheinturm

From the Rhineturm, the Neuer Zollhof can be seen on the river below (see above).  Built by famed American architect Frank O. Gehry in the lat 1990s, this area is part of a revitalization project on the riverfront and is a must-see for any architect fan.  There are 3 Gehry buildings in the area and each can be seen close up without any sort of entrance fee.

Der Neuer Zollhof

A 20 minute train ride to the South of Duesseldorf lies the more tourist friendly city of Cologne.  Though more economically viable and significantly larger, Duesseldorf is locked in a fierce rivalry with its neighbor to the south and upon arrival into Cologne’s main train station (Hauptbahnhof), it becomes readily apparent why.As we exited the train station in Cologne we were immediately greeted by an imposing square, punctuated by the formidable Cologne Cathedral (Koelner Dom).  It is the largest gothic cathedral in Germany and even for those like myself who are not religious, the building is breathtaking.  Left mainly in its original state (it’s structure survived Allied bombing), visitors are able to enter the Cathedral free of charge.  We arrived in Cologne on a Sunday and were lucky enough to observe Sunday mass.  Like the Rhineturm, the Cathedral boasts excellent views from it’s main tower which is only accessible via a 50 flights of stairs. For a few Euros, you can climb the tower yourself and enjoy the views, though I don’t recommend it for anyone with small children (you’ll end up carrying them) or with health problems (there’s no way down other than stairs).

View from the Cologne Cathedral

After all the calories we burned climbing the Cathedral we decided to reward ourselves with a trip to the Imhoff Chocolate Museum, which is located along the Rhine.  Despite it’s subject matter, this turned out to be quite a serious museum with loads of information about the history of chocolate.  Also included inside was a fully operational chocolate manufacturing process complete with free samples.  We ended our trip to the museum with a stop in their cafe for chocolate cake and some of Cologne’s locally brewed beer, known as Koelsch.

While Nordrhein-Westfalen may not be a typical stop on the tourist map, I suggest that anyone with interest in German culture, food, or history take a look at this area before planning their next trip.  The food is as good as it gets here in Germany, the weather is pleasant, and the Rhine provides a uniting force and stunning backdrop to this influential region of the country.


Barcelona, Spain

Both the capital of Catalonia and the second city of Spain, I had looked forward to visiting Barcelona for quite sometime.  With its origins dating back to Roman times the city isn’t short on history or culture. Its sunny seaside locale also provides a nice break for cold-weather dwellers.  But for me, Barcelona’s main draw was its modernist architecture.

The early 20th century was Barcelona’s golden age.  During this time it became a wealthy city and has the buildings to show for it.  Acclaimed architect Atoni Gaudi, Barcelona’s own son, is responsible for the city’s fame as a modernist architecture hub. After doing some internet research, I was pleased to find a free Gaudi walking tour provided by Runner Bean Tours.

Lost in Barcelona

We started our Saturday morning with a walk down tourist-laden Las Ramblas to our rendezvous point (Placa Reial) with Runner Bean and proceeded with our tour guide, Debbie, along with about 20 other tour-goers to several of Gaudi’s more well-known buildings.  The tour was informative, and getting to each spot on the tour was easy with the help of our guide.  Afterwards, travel started to become a lot more difficult.

My plan for Saturday afternoon was to go straight from the Guadi tour which ended at the impressive Sagrada Familia, to Parc Guell – another one of Gaudi’s masterpieces.  Unfortunately, we got off at the wrong subway stop and spent the next hour wandering through a more run-down part of Barcelona.  On the plus side, it was an adventure and we got to peak into the real Barcelona.  On the downside, it was hot and I have bad knees and feet due to injury and collapsed arches and walking for prolonged periods of time is quite painful for me.  Nevertheless, we were dedicated and eventually got the help of a few locals who probably felt bad for us and eventually led us straight through the Park.

La Sagrada Familia

Casa Batllo

Parc Guell was a mix of nature, architecture and amazing views.  The main entrance to Guell is near the bottom of a hill and you are immediately greeted by a grouping of Gaudi’s more surreal-looking works.  There is a magnificent staircase, a main shopping centre and a few houses scattered about. Parc Guell was originally intented as a master-planned community but it was a commercial failure and only three people ever lived in the community. Luckily for us, what Gaudi did manage to build still remains and is open to the public for free.  As beautiful as the entrance to the parc is, urge people to make the trek up to the top of the hill, past Gaudi’s works, as you will get to see some of the best views of Barcelona.  After Parc Guell, it was back to the hotel for a siesta and tapas for dinner.

Entrance to Parc Guell

Sunday morning brought a cloudier, but still warm day.  Our plans took us to Montjuic which is a short subway ride away.  The train dropped us off at the base of the mountain and from there we took a funicular to Castel de Montjuic – an 18th century fortress which was a military museum up until 2009.  Currently it is home to a few WWI-era canons and not much else.  However, there is no entrance fee to the fortress and visitors are free to walk inside.  The fortress also looks over not only Barcelona, but the Mediterranean sea s well.

After exploring Castel de Montjuic, we hopped back on the funicular towards the base of the mountain.  From there we emarked on a short hike to Palau Nacional.  The palace is beautiful, but more stunning were the series of steps and fountains that led from Palau Nacional down to Placa Espanya.  The palace is home to a Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, but we did not have time to visit.  From the palace we were a short walk from former Olympic Park, where the 1992 Olympics were held.  Entrance into the stadium is free and it’s worth a visit if you find yourself on Montjuic.  Time flew on Montjuic and after an escalator-filled journey down from the mountain towards Placa Espanya, we decided to head to the waterfront.

View of Placa Espanya from Palau Nacional

Barcelona’s waterfront area is fairly new and caters mostly to tourists in search of a break from the crowded city streets.  It boasts a modern aquarium, tons of restaurants, an antique market and much more.  With our trip winding down, we stopped at a restaurant for a last taste of tapas topped off with gelato.  Afterwards, we walked back to our hotel and caught a taxi back to the airport.