The Ruins of Ayutthaya

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Painting of Ayutthaya Commissioned by the Dutch East India Company

The only Southeast Asian nation to successfully withstand European colonisation attempts, Thailand’s history as a unified kingdom stretches back into the Middle Ages. Today, Bangkok stands as the kingdom’s vibrant capital. 11,000,000+ inhabitants strong, the city is a powerhouse in this region of the world and attracts visitors from all corners of the globe. Visit Bangkok today and its size, density and centuries-old temples will make it hard to believe that there was a ever a time when the country’s capital laid elsewhere.

150 years before Columbus set sale for India, Bangkok was merely a fishing village and Thailand’s King U-Thong made his way to the Valley of the Chao Praya River after fleeing an outbreak of smallpox. It was there that he founded the Kingdom’s capital of Ayutthaya, 80km north of modern-day Bangkok. Named after the birthplace of Rama in India, Ayutthaya rose to become one of the most powerful cities in Asia over the next 400 years.

Set amongst a lush valley with excellent waterway access, Ayutthaya flourished thanks in part to an open and friendly trade policy with the Dutch, French, Spanish and Portuguese. By the year 1600 there were an estimated 300,000 people living within its borders – 100,000 more than London at the time. Over the next 150 years the city thrived and its population ballooned to over 1,000,000 in the mid-1700s, asserting Ayutthaya as the strongest power within Southeast Asia. French ambassadors likened the city’s size and wealth to that of Paris and at the height of its influence it was poised to become a major contender in a rapidly globalising world. Then, in 1767, after series of long battles with the Burmese, the walls of the city were breached and Ayutthaya was burned to the ground. With the city destroyed and the king murdered, Ayutthaya was abandoned and construction of a new capital to the south began.

Prang in Ayutthaya

Today, only a trace of once was remains, but the ruins of Ayutthaya still evoke a sense of grandeur and elegance. Distinctive prangs crooked from the war and centuries of rainfall, jut out organically from the grassy lawns of the Ayutthaya Historical Park. With their protective sheaths eroded, the original brickwork is exposed which allows you to peer into the very heart of each structure. Sculptures of Buddha dot the landscape and are carefully tended to by locals as many Thai nationals still come to Ayutthaya to pray.

On the ground you can feel the crunch of broken bricks beneath your feet, perhaps shattered in the bloody war that took place here 250 years ago. In the air dragonflies buzz in dense clusters and effortlessly navigate their way around ancient temple spires partially painted with the green of clinging plants. In the distance walk a line of elephants, though carrying tourists, they still add to the mystique of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Elephants with the Ruins in the Background

Ayutthaya may no longer be compared to Paris, but I would argue that its ruins are as fascinating as those of the Roman Empire. Left mostly unpreserved, the physical condition of the ancient city have become a spectacle in its own right. Partially reclaimed by nature, the ancient temples feel more organic than man made and are reminiscent of Incan or Mayan ruins.

Ayutthaya Historical Park

Easily accessible from Bangkok via a cruise along the Chao Praya River or car, the ruins of Ayutthaya can be easily explored in a day with plenty of time leftover for elephant rides and viewing the city’s old Portuguese settlement. For those staying in Bangkok, this is a day trip that cannot be missed.

Wandersick: A Peek into the Thai Healthcare System

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Thai Hospital

When I was 9 and living in California, I took a trip with my Dad to Thailand.  It was his first trip back in 3 years and he was eager to meet with relatives and get some business done.  Unfortunately, his plans were thwarted by Northwest Airlines.  The flight was not cancelled, nor was it delayed.  That would be too obvious. Northwest ruined his vacation in a very unusual way.  They fed his 9 year old salmonella-laden pink chicken which led to intense (and I mean INTENSE) vomiting.

I landed at Don Muang airport in a rough state. I was a trooper though, and did my best to stay the course.  As the days slipped by, it became evident that I could not keep anything down.  My Aunt, concerned for my health, told my Dad to take me to the hospital.

“No”, he said.  “They’ll put an IV in her. That’s not safe”.  Instead, he booked us on the next flight back to San Francisco.  Needless to say this did not inspire a lot of confidence in me about the Thai Healthcare system.

So, almost 15 years later (God, I’m old!) I found myself again in Thailand and in need of some medical assistance.  Granted, there was no salmonella involved this time.  In fact, all I really needed was an eye exam and some glasses.  I had scheduled an appointment in London at Specsavers, but it was ages away and my Dad said that he was friends with a German-trained opthamologist.  It sounded promising but I was still weary. Luckily for me, the Thai healthcare system has improved vastly over the past 15 years.

On a lovely Sunday morning we drove out to the Eye, Ear, Nose, Throat hospital in Nonthaburi, Bangkok.  I didn’t know what to expect. In my mind I had visions of the hospital from M*A*S*H, complete with wounded Korean War soldiers, Hot Lips and Alan Alda.  Alas, my imagination is a bit, well, ridiculous and I suppose I didn’t really have anything to worry about.  When we entered the hospital it turned out to be a little more Grey’s Anatomy than M*A*S*H.

Was it a state-of-the-art glimmering building filed with Dr. McDreamys? No, but it was a clean and modern hospital that would certainly be on par with NHS hospitals in the UK and US military hospitals.  The lighting was slightly dim (but energy saving!) and the walls could have used a new coat of paint, but there was nothing glaring to complain about.

The eye exam itself was surprisingly thorough and put my Dad back a whole $10 USD.  The eye chart is made up completely of numbers so you don’t need to speak Thai in order to get your eyes examed.  After the chart, a test for glaucoma and an examination by the opthamologist it was determined that I had astigmatism.  Luckily, my doctor spoke fluent English and explained my condition to me very clearly.  He then wrote up a prescription and I went back onto the main floor to choose my glasses.

The range of frames available wasn’t the greates, but included Versace, Levis, Espirit (I didn’t know half of these companies even made glasses), etc.  Eventually I chose a suitable pair of frames and they were ready in about 15 minutes.  So, after an hour, $30 USD and some unwarranted trepidation I was rewarded with the gift of sight.

In the future, I don’t think I will have any issues with going to a hospital in Thailand.  I am realising more and more that even as someone who is familiar with Thailand and Thai culture (I’m half Thai), I still hold Western stigmas and I need to start reforming the way I think about the unknown.

Wanderbliss: Phuket, Thailand

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Promthep Point - Phuket, Thailand

A well-known vacation spot for Europeans, Phuket is unfamiliar territory for Americans.  And to this NorCal-bred girl it’s an island paradise . . . if you know where to stay.

The island is accessible via car through a bridge, though the easiest route to Phuket from Bangkok is through Don Muang airport (DMK).  DMK is Bangkok’s old international airport and is comparable to San Diego’s airport in that it’s small and caters to mostly domestic flights. Flight time from DMK to Phuket is 1.5 hours at a cost of around $30USD (each way), with an option of going through several different carriers including Air Asia and Orient Thai.

Phuket airport is a bit of a drive from where most tourists stay, but many major hotels offer airport pickup.  Thais that live on the island often speak a good bit of English as opposed to their counterparts in Bangkok.  This makes taking a taxi easier.  Phuket’s most popular beaches are all located on the west side of the island, with Patong Beach being the most popular.

To a traveller interested in culture, Patong is a desolate place. It has completely succumb to tourism and is comprised of seedy bars,nightclubs and other less-than-reputable establishments looking to lure young Australians, Russians, and Germans in search of cheap thrills. In a nutshell, Patong is a place for young people looking for a good time in an exotic country, on a beautiful beach. It is not a place to bring children (especially at night) and I don’t recommend staying here if you are in Phuket for sightseeing.

Patong, Karon and Kamala beaches

Patong may not be for everyone, but there are plenty of other beaches on the island.  Karon and Kamala are quieter beaches located south of Patong.  I consider them to be much more scenic, tranquil and suitable for families. For those still looking to experience Patong, there are shuttles that drive between most of Phuket’s beaches throughout the day and night. Additionally, you can rent a scooter and explore Patong (and the rest of the island) yourself for 300 baht/day ($10USD).Patong, Karon and Kamala are all relatively inexpensive for most foreigners. I would suggest shying away from the larger hotels and searching for an owner-operated establishment to find the best deal. The island is littered with European-run bed and breakfasts and boutique hotels.  On the higher end of the spectrum, there is Laguna beach (no, not the one in Orange County).  This is where the Kat Moss’ of the world stay when they vacation in Phuket.  If you’re looking for a luxury beach vacation, Laguna is the place to be.  It’s located closer to the airport than the other beaches, yet is more secluded and the beach itself gives Hawaii a run for its money.A lot of travellers discount beach locations as tourist traps void of culture. In the case of Phuket, I will admit that yes, a lot of it has gone to the tourists. Locals rely on them to keep their economy going but are not-so-secretly frustrated that the land once owned by their ancestors has been gobbled up by European investors.
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I think though, that Phuket is a versatile place.  I believe that you can indulge in a little R&R on a beautiful beach while still soaking in the Thai culture.  Phuket is full of little nooks and crannies that you can explore by motorbike.  Check out roadside stands selling mango and sticky rice – a local delicacy.  Alternatively, venture to the east side of the island and explore the “locals” part of the island.  Southern Thailand is culturally quite different from Bangkok and Phuket is a great place to observe this.
Nature lovers can try riding an Elaphant into the island’s tropical jungle or exploring the many islands scattered around Phuket.  Many of these islands have their own mini-ecosystem with different plants and animals. Many of these islands offer the option to camp out (tents provided) for a small fee, providing you ample time to hike around.  There are many commercial boat tours available and the guides tend to speak fluent English.  Private boat hire on an authentic Thai longboat is also possible, though it will cost you a bit more.Phuket is what you make of it. I encourage people to not shy away from it because of its tourist-y repuation.  Though well deserved, if you know where to look Phuket can turn into so much more.