Historic Hiking in Gibraltar

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View of Gibraltar

On the surface, Gibraltar appears to be little more than a boozy, sun kissed British overseas territory.  Best known for its status as a tax haven, the tiny 2 square mile town consists of a myriad of crumbling housing estates and cobbled roads lined with shops hawking duty-free alcohol sprinkled in with a few British high street brands.  However, few of us tourists make the trek down here for just the town.  The towering Rock of Gibraltar is the territory’s main attraction and in addition to some of the best hiking I’ve ever experienced, it’s home to (in my opinion) a treasure trove of grossly underappreciated historic artifacts and features.

From a geographic perspective, Gibraltar sits at the southern tip of the European subcontinent and it is separated from Africa by the 9-mile wide Strait of Gibraltar.  In antiquity, this was considered (more or less) the end of the known world.  Providing access between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Gibraltar has long been a sought after spot for both strategic military and trade reasons.  Over millennia, a wide range of peoples and civilizations have made their mark on the rock.  An avid fan of ancient history, I made it my mission to take a gander at some of its older sites starting from 40,000 BCE and ending in the 1400s.

St. Michael’s Cave
St. Michael’s Cave has a very unassuming tunnel entrance that opens up into a dazzling display of limestone stalactites and stalagmites carved by rainwater over countless years.  This is the first significant cave I had ever visited and I was floored by how organic and beautiful it was.  The cave has received several mentions throughout history and is also known to have provided shelter to Neolithic peoples (approx. 20,000 years ago) and Neanderthals (approx. 40,000 years ago) as evidenced by the skulls, cave painting and bowls that they left behind.

St. Michael’s Cave

The Mediterranean Steps
Originally carved in the 18th century by the British as a means of traveling from one major defense point to another, the Mediterranean Steps scale nearly 200 meters of sheer limestone rock face.  The steps make up a popular hiking path today and offer absolutely stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and Spain’s Costa del Sol in the distance.  It also passes by several structures and tunnels made by soldiers both in the 18th century and during WWII.  The hike, however, is pretty challenging.  While most tourist choose to climb up (from Jew’s Gate to O’hara’s Battery), it’s probably easier to take them down in the opposite direction.

Well worth the hike: View of the Med Sea from the Med Steps

The Pillars of Hercules
In classical antiquity, the Pillars of Hercules consisted of the Rock of Gibraltar and a neighboring peak across the strait in Africa (the exact peak is up for debate).  At the crossroads between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, this was a crucial spot in the ancient world. It was mentioned by Plato and was settled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians, and even the Vandals .  Standing on Gibraltar’s peak and staring across the strait towards Africa put me through a bit of a time warp.  As the geographic features have not really changed since ancient times, I could have easily been standing on the same spot and sharing the same view as an early Phoenician did settler 3,000 years ago.

Pillars of Hercules — View of Africa

Moorish Castle
The Moors conquered the Iberian Peninsula around 700 AD, which subsequently led to a centuries-long power struggle for Gibraltar.  The origins of Gibraltar’s Moorish Castle date back to the 700s, but what stands today is a reconstruction from the Moors second time at Gibraltar’s helm in the 1400s.  Today, there is unfortunately not a whole lot left to the structure, but it still provides a glimpse into the region’s rocky past.

Moorish Castle with Barbary Ape in the Foreground

Hiking Review
As an added bonus to all this history, the scenery from Gibraltar’s hiking trails are second to none.  There are also plenty of barbary apes (macaques) and high-flying seagulls to keep you company during your walk.  The entire rock can be viewed in 1-day if you’re up to the challenge.  My boyfriend and I were able to get through most of it in 5-6 hours, though my legs are still feeling the effects of all that walking.
Trails crossing the rock are well paved and shared with vehicles.  The exception to this is the Mediterranean Steps.  They are incredibly steep, slippery and I would consider them to be dangerous if you aren’t in great shape. I would not recommend them for the elderly or younger children.

 

Though Gibraltar is a popular summertime destination, if you’re here to hike and see the historic sites on the rock I suggest coming in the cooler months.  The weather was perfect for hiking during my 2-day visit (early Feb) and I imagine the weather will stay cool for another few months or so.

Barbary Ape Taking in the View

Pertinent Information:
Getting to Gibraltar — 4 daily flights operate from London to Gibraltar (2x British Airways, 1x Easy Jet, 1x Monarch)
Getting to the Rock — Hike either towards Jew’s Gate or the Moorish Castle; Take the Cable Car (my recommendation); Take a Taxi

 

Jersey: Island living with a UK twist

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I didn’t know what to expect when I booked a weekend getaway with my significant other to Jersey Island.  Sitting somewhere between England and France, it’s a tiny speck of land mostly known for being a tax haven.  Upon our early morning arrival I was immediately taken aback by the island’s beauty.

In contrast to the sprawling urban tendrils of London, where sweeping vistas of grey and brown are accented by just the tiniest bits of greenery now and again, Jersey seemed to be (for lack of a better term) in harmony with nature.  Decidedly modern construction jutted out along its green hills, while more period homes blended into the environment seamlessly, covered in ivy and flowers.  The coastal winds which whipped through the island provided it with a constant supply of fresh, clean air.

In the town of St. Helier, the largest on the island, the streets were clean, charming and boasted beautiful views of St. Aubin’s Bay and Elizabeth Castle.  The bay itself was a wide, sandy mouth inviting deep blue sea water to the shores.  Our hotel was nestled on a hill a few blocks up from St. Aubin’s and we were pleasantly surprised with an upgrade to a sea-facing room.

View from Hotel Cristina

The view was nothing short of spectacular with neatly manicured English shrubbery against the deep blue  of the channel waters.  Our short two-day stint on the island took us through winding country roads where we found inland gems in the form of the Durrell Wildlife Conservatory, and the La Mare Wine Estate.

Jersey’s sunny seaside demeanor and fertile soil has been home to a spectacular wildlife conservation park for nearly half a century now.  Sitting on a large plot of land on the northern half of the island, the Durrell Wildlife Conservatory is dedicated to the rehabilitation of endangered and threatened species.  For an incredibly modest entrance fee, we were able to view some of the park’s residents.  Open and lush with flora, Durrell is home to a number of great apes, reptiles and birds.  The conservatory carefully crafted suitable environments for all its animals, allowing them to roam through open-structured environments.

Chilean Flamingos at Durrell

Bringing out my inner Attenborough, I spend the better part of a few hours sitting and observing lemurs, gorillas, various water fowl and orangutans graze and interact in surroundings which at times rivaled the San Diego Zoo.  The conservatory also included an obligatory, yet tasteful, gift shop/coffee shop in addition to an organic farming exhibit and apple orchard.

Not far from the wildlife conservatory is the La Mare Wine Estate, a small vineyard providing the island with wine, sparkling wine, apple cider, apple brandy, chocolate and other confections.  Elevated with views of Jersey’s north shore and a neighboring island, the vineyard is a sight to behold. I took a self-guided tour through the estate, passing vineyards, a small apple orchard and a pony named bubbles. The area was blanketed with tiny white flowers in full bloom and the buds of the grapevines were about to sprout.

Standing is a field under the warmth of the afternoon sun I was reminded of my childhood, growing up about a half hour from California’s wine country. It was at that point, amongst the grassy fields in the cool breeze that everything felt like home.  Jersey has a small-town feel that I suppose I missed after spending the majority of the last year and a half between London and Bangkok. But here on this tiny vineyard in the middle of a speck of an island in the English Channel, I felt the rare but oh-so-sweet comfort of that small town atmosphere, and it felt really good.

La Mare Wine Estate

For our last few hours on Jersey I managed to pry myself from the magnetic pull of its homey country center and head out to St. Ouen’s Bay which flanked the west coast of Jersey.  While St. Aubin’s was a scenic and charming slice of beach, St. Ouen’s was wild, rocky and unkempt  - but in a good way.  Here small idyllic family dwelling were replaced by sprawling hillside mansions with unobstructed views of the untamed seas.  Broad, windy and full of soft but packed sand, the beach was a haven for windsurfers who criss-crossed the sandy plains with alarming velocity.  So vast was the beach during low tide that I couldn’t resist the temptation to run unabashedly  along the coastline; the wind swirling my hair in front of my eyes.

St. Ouen's Bay

From my perspective, Jersey is a place that’s got it right.  Its mix of urban and rural, beaches and farms, and old and new make it incredibly hospitable without damaging its natural beauty.  Such a short flight from my home in London, I can definitely see myself visiting Jersey again and I’d also like to explore Guernsey, its island neighbor.  As for now, I’m back in London, looking out the window onto a very muddy River Thames.  It may not be St. Aubin’s bay, but it will have to do for now. :)

For more photos of my weekend trip to Jersey, visit my Flickr site here.

In Pictures: Bangkok Flooding

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To donate to the Thai Red cross, please go HERE.

To view more images, check out my flickr set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wanderbliss/sets/72157627838784131/

It just so happens that my 3-month trip to Thailand has overlapped with the worst floods in the country for 50 years.  The northern provinces of Ayutthaya and Nakhon Sawan (the country’s rice-growing region) have already been devastated by water. Around October 20th, 2011, a swell of water began to knock on the door of Thailand’s capital Bangkok.

Nonthaburi is a city of several million that sits on the northern edge of Bangkok and was the first to receive the floodwaters.  The neighborhoods of Bang Bua Thong and Bang Yai, located only kilometres from the Bangkok border were inundated with water.

I’m currently staying in Nonthaburi and commute 6 days a week into Bangkok.  I stay mostly around the regions of Bang Sue and Chattuchak and have taken photos of flooding in these areas as well as Nonthaburi over the past few days.  Currently, the flooding ebbs and flows with the tide which peaks at around 4:20pm each day. Local news reports indiciate that the flooding will continue until Oct. 30th and I will add pictures to this post until then.

Updates:

31-OCT-2011: I spent the weekend travelling around Bangkok and I ran into flooding in Bang Po and around the Rama V Bridge. The bridge closed to normal traffic a few days ago and military trucks now take residents back and forth for free. I went under the bridge to investigate what was going on and I saw a steady stream of water, lumber, sandbags and provisions headed across the bridge to Bang Yai and Bang Bua Thong. It was an encouraging sign. Elsewhere, Don Muang, Rangsit and parts of Ramintra are underwater. It looks as though metropolitan Bangkok will be spared from flooding.
28-OCT-2011: Added images and a video from the commute home last night. The northern edge of Bangkok and Muang Nonthaburi were flooded and traffic, despite being much lighter than usual, was very slow. Motorcycles, which are probably the most common form of transportation in the city, are have a difficult time trudging through the water.

27-OCT-2011: Added images from my condo complex this morning as well as some pictures of flood preparation in Bang Sue (Northern district in Bangkok).  The news reports about high tide peaking between 27-31 OCT must be true as I woke up to find no trace of dry gound below me.  The entire complex has been flooded and is spilling out into the streets.  I suspect if this keeps up for another 2-3 days Muang Nonthaburi (downtown/main Nonthaburi) will be underwater, which includes the areas around the Rama V bridge (the “Rama” bridges all cross the Chao Praya River).  Don Muang Airport was closed yesterday because of flooding and the area of Rangsit in Bangkok remains underwater.

26-OCT-2011: Added images of Thai newspaper headlines.  Many riverside businesses and restaurants have been forced to closed to due persistent (but not heavy) flooding.  Water from the Chao Praya does not seem to ebb as much during low tide and is staying on roads longer.  Greatly effected areas include Bang Bua Thong (in Nonthaburi – just north of Bangkok), Rangsit and Don Muang (where Don Muang Airport is located).


30-OCT-2011: A child plays in a flooded street.


30-OCT-2011: Residents finally reach dry land after a ride across flood waters.


30-OCT-2011: Stray dog looks back from flooding street.


30-OCT-2011: Motorcycle plows its way through water.


A sandbag wall nearly 2 meters hold water that is pumped from the adjacent street. The sound you hear is that of the water pump, which burned out later on in the night.

Driving through the streets of Northern Bangkok on the night of 27-OCT-2011. (Apologies for the appalling videography)


27-OCT-2011: Water fills the streets of Northern Bangkok.


27-OCT-2011: Volunteers in Northern Bangkok ride on a truck through some of the worst effected areas.


27-OCT-2011: Workers desperately try to move water towards a pump in order to divert it back into the Chao Praya River.


27-OCT-2011: Thailand’s iconic tuk tuks are used to deliver sandbags throughout local communities


27-OCT-2011: Many shopowners take no chances and build sealed concrete walls to protect themselves from the water


27-OCT-2011: Chao Praya river levels have clearly gone up overnight, indicating that the worst may be to come


Communities along the Chao Praya are struggling to keep the water at bay. Sandbags are becoming no match for the wall of water that is encroaching


Roads are becoming hard to spot under the water.


Thai newspaper from 25-OCT-11 states: “Disaster of this Scale Unexpected” (rough translation).


Thai newspaper from 25-OCT-11 states: “Frightened women and children rush to board a Thai Military Truck in the suburb of Bang Bua Thong” (rough translation).


Thai newspaper from 24-OCT-11 states: “Bangkok due to be Bombarded by Water” (rough translation).


25-10-11: A popular riverside restaurant is forced to close due to flooding.


25-10-11: With a pool 1.5 metres high, sandbag barriers begin to leak heavily.


Taken a few days before major flooding began: Water begins to creep into a riverside home.


First signs of flooding begin in Bangkok: Motorists navigate their way through wet streets.


The Chao Praya’s muddy water continues to converge on the streets.


Northern Bangkok: The streets of Northern Bangkok flood near a popular University area. The road ahead is closed and the government is providing sandbags to local residents.


Northern Bangkok: Two boys sit on rails to avoid getting wet on a popular shopping street in Bang Sue. This is the first time they have seen flooding here in their lives


Nonthaburi: This roadblock is a pre-emptive measure to keep streets in danger of flooding from getting too crowded. Only residents are allowed beyond this point.


Bangkok Mega Mart Big C is inundated with customers.


Store shelves empty quickly.


Nonthaburi: Rama V bridge is full of parked cars seeking refuge from flood waters.


Nonthaburi: Reinforced sandbag walls struggle to contain water from the neighboring Chao Praya River in a condo development.


High Tide: The Chao Praya River levels creep over the land.


Nonthaburi: A picnik table is nearly consumed by flood waters.

 

To donate to the Thai Red cross, please go HERE.

To view more images, check out my flickr set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wanderbliss/sets/72157627838784131/