I didn’t know what to expect when I booked a weekend getaway with my significant other to Jersey Island.  Sitting somewhere between England and France, it’s a tiny speck of land mostly known for being a tax haven.  Upon our early morning arrival I was immediately taken aback by the island’s beauty.

In contrast to the sprawling urban tendrils of London, where sweeping vistas of grey and brown are accented by just the tiniest bits of greenery now and again, Jersey seemed to be (for lack of a better term) in harmony with nature.  Decidedly modern construction jutted out along its green hills, while more period homes blended into the environment seamlessly, covered in ivy and flowers.  The coastal winds which whipped through the island provided it with a constant supply of fresh, clean air.

In the town of St. Helier, the largest on the island, the streets were clean, charming and boasted beautiful views of St. Aubin’s Bay and Elizabeth Castle.  The bay itself was a wide, sandy mouth inviting deep blue sea water to the shores.  Our hotel was nestled on a hill a few blocks up from St. Aubin’s and we were pleasantly surprised with an upgrade to a sea-facing room.

View from Hotel Cristina

The view was nothing short of spectacular with neatly manicured English shrubbery against the deep blue  of the channel waters.  Our short two-day stint on the island took us through winding country roads where we found inland gems in the form of the Durrell Wildlife Conservatory, and the La Mare Wine Estate.

Jersey’s sunny seaside demeanor and fertile soil has been home to a spectacular wildlife conservation park for nearly half a century now.  Sitting on a large plot of land on the northern half of the island, the Durrell Wildlife Conservatory is dedicated to the rehabilitation of endangered and threatened species.  For an incredibly modest entrance fee, we were able to view some of the park’s residents.  Open and lush with flora, Durrell is home to a number of great apes, reptiles and birds.  The conservatory carefully crafted suitable environments for all its animals, allowing them to roam through open-structured environments.

Chilean Flamingos at Durrell

Bringing out my inner Attenborough, I spend the better part of a few hours sitting and observing lemurs, gorillas, various water fowl and orangutans graze and interact in surroundings which at times rivaled the San Diego Zoo.  The conservatory also included an obligatory, yet tasteful, gift shop/coffee shop in addition to an organic farming exhibit and apple orchard.

Not far from the wildlife conservatory is the La Mare Wine Estate, a small vineyard providing the island with wine, sparkling wine, apple cider, apple brandy, chocolate and other confections.  Elevated with views of Jersey’s north shore and a neighboring island, the vineyard is a sight to behold. I took a self-guided tour through the estate, passing vineyards, a small apple orchard and a pony named bubbles. The area was blanketed with tiny white flowers in full bloom and the buds of the grapevines were about to sprout.

Standing is a field under the warmth of the afternoon sun I was reminded of my childhood, growing up about a half hour from California’s wine country. It was at that point, amongst the grassy fields in the cool breeze that everything felt like home.  Jersey has a small-town feel that I suppose I missed after spending the majority of the last year and a half between London and Bangkok. But here on this tiny vineyard in the middle of a speck of an island in the English Channel, I felt the rare but oh-so-sweet comfort of that small town atmosphere, and it felt really good.

La Mare Wine Estate

For our last few hours on Jersey I managed to pry myself from the magnetic pull of its homey country center and head out to St. Ouen’s Bay which flanked the west coast of Jersey.  While St. Aubin’s was a scenic and charming slice of beach, St. Ouen’s was wild, rocky and unkempt  - but in a good way.  Here small idyllic family dwelling were replaced by sprawling hillside mansions with unobstructed views of the untamed seas.  Broad, windy and full of soft but packed sand, the beach was a haven for windsurfers who criss-crossed the sandy plains with alarming velocity.  So vast was the beach during low tide that I couldn’t resist the temptation to run unabashedly  along the coastline; the wind swirling my hair in front of my eyes.

St. Ouen's Bay

From my perspective, Jersey is a place that’s got it right.  Its mix of urban and rural, beaches and farms, and old and new make it incredibly hospitable without damaging its natural beauty.  Such a short flight from my home in London, I can definitely see myself visiting Jersey again and I’d also like to explore Guernsey, its island neighbor.  As for now, I’m back in London, looking out the window onto a very muddy River Thames.  It may not be St. Aubin’s bay, but it will have to do for now. :)

For more photos of my weekend trip to Jersey, visit my Flickr site here.


Windsor Castle

Details
Getting There: Trains leave approx. every half hour from Paddington Station in London to Windsor & Eton Central Station. Round-trip fare is approx. 9GBP. Plan your journey here.
Admission Fee: £17 when the State Apartments are open. £9 when they are closed.
Official Website: http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/default.asp?action=article&ID=34

Windsor Castle is located just 30 minutes from central London and offers visitors an excellent day or even half-day break from the hustle and bustle of the big city.  It is the oldest and largest active castle in the world and the Queen still spends many of her private weekends at this imposing compound composed of Gothic architecture and fairy-tale style turrets.

Unfortunately, because the Queen does occasionally spend her time at Windsor, it’s not always fully open to the public.  Before you plan your visit it’s best to check the official website to ensure that the castle will be open for visitors on the day you wish to arrive.

Windsor is conveniently located a few steps away from the Windsor and Eton Central train station and there are signs located throughout the town which will lead you towards the entrance to the grounds.  The castle opens at 9:45am and it’s best to arrive as early as possible.  Even in the winter, Windsor gets crowded during the day.

Windsor's distinct Round Tower

The famous “Changing of the Guard” takes place within the grounds of Windsor Castle every other day at 11am, except on Sundays and the ceremony lasts 20 minutes -a very lenghthy 20 minutes when it’s cold outside. My suggestion would be to visit on a day when the State Apartments are open and the changing of the guard is being performed. This will ensure that you’re getting the most Windsor for your buck . . . or pound. If you’re lucky, St. George’s Chapel will also be open.  Housing the remains of 10 members of the royal family, this gothic-style chapel stands out from the rest of the compound with its creamy-coloured stones and distinctive arched windows.

Aside from the State Rooms and chapel, Windsor also contains Queen Mary’s Dollhouse – an incredibly ornate and fully functional dollhouse complete with electricity and running water.  Exploring the passageways of the public part of the castle, military history lovers will delight in the various collections of weapons grouped by regions such as India and Japan.  Other highlights include a collections of fine china and as well as a rotating list of special exhibits.  Like most royal palaces, the grounds themselves are a spectacle unto themselves.  At Windsor, however, the neatly manicured “backyard” is not open to tourists but it can be viewed from the windows of the State Apartments.

Changing of the Guard

Windsor Interior

At £17, Windsor is by no means the cheapest palace or castle in Europe. However, keeping in mind that it has been an active royal residence for nearly 1000 years and that it is more of a compound rather than a singular castle, the admission fee is justified.  Windsor is easily one of the best preserved castles I’ve visited.  Because of its lengthy history, it offers visitors a chance to step into the dragon-slaying middle-ages all the way through to the Gothic, Georgian, and Victorian ages within a few hours. Add that to the fact that it’s such a short journey from London and it makes for the perfect day out.


After a 1 hour unassuming train ride through the British countryside, past the obligatory nuclear power plant and the occasional sheep, we arrived at Oxford’s tiny railway station.  It was a mild July afternoon and I had high hopes that I’d finally be able to experience the Victorian splendor exahlted in Lewis Carrol’s classic Alice in Wonderland. Alice was, afterall, based on Alice Liddel – born in the 1850s as daughter of the Dean of Christ Church college at Oxford University. It was Carrol’s relationship with the little Liddel in Oxford that was thought to be the inspiration for the novel.

Any hopes of recapturing quaint Victorian times in this famous University town were soon dashed as we quickly found ourselves amongst a mob of tourists and wedding parties from every inch of the globe.

Lesson Learned: Don’t visit Oxford in July

After squeezing our way through the crowds, we made our way to Magdalen Bridge Boat house where we planned on either punting or rowing to start off our day.  Unfortunately, we were greeted by a long line of Italian exchange students waiting for boats and decided to tread elsewhere as opposed to waiting in line.  We found nearby Magdalen College and paid a modest £3 entrance fee, which came with a pamphlet about its history.  The grounds may have been only a few meters from the congested Oxford streets, but the scenery was quiet and peaceful. The buildings that make up Magdalen College’s cloister are magnificent and the gardens were lush and healthy. This was more along the lines of what I was hoping for.  After exploring the grounds for an hour or so, we headed back out to the mean streets of Oxford to see what else the city had to offer.

Magdalen College Cloister
Magdalen College Cloister

I love a good view, so I couldn’t turn down the opportunity to climb to the top of The Church of St. Mary the Virgin for what was advertised as one of the best views of Oxford. After a 15 minute wait, we again paid a few pounds to make our way up the narrow staircase to the top of the church tower.  The climb itself is not that taxing (especially after climbing the Cologne Cathedral), but space at the top is extremely limited. The width of the walkways is hardly 12 inches.  Despite the relative discomfort of getting squashed into random strangers, the views turned out to be pretty spectacular.  Nestled just behind Radcliffe Square, the church
has perfect aerial views of almost the entire city, and you can easily peer into All Souls and Christ Church colleges.

View of All Souls College from Church tower

After a much needed lunch break, we came across a private tour company offering tours of the University for a reasonable fee.  We decided to go for it and quickly found out that many of the colleges normally on the tour would not be accessible to due weddings and various other events that were taking place that day.  After a tour of Baillol College, we proceeded to wander around the campus aimlessly with the tour guide desperately searching for colleges that were available for tours.  Along the way be again passed Radcliffe Square and also saw the old library.  Our disappointment in the tour culminated towards the end when we approached the gate of Chritchurch college – the one Harry Potter was filmed in – and were turned away due to a late-running wedding.

Breaking off the tour, we headed back to Magdalen Bridge Boat house, hoping that our second attempt at renting a boat would be more successful than our first.  We were pleasantly surprised by the much shorter line and had just enough time to enjoy some ice cream before cautiously stepping into our wooden contraption for the hour.  It was about £25 to rent a row boat for an hour and the same price for a punting boat.  We decided to row instead of punt because it looked more stable and this was of utmost importance since I can’t swim.

Rowing Along Oxford Canal

A Slice of Victorian Living

The scenery along the canal was absolutely lovely.  Some of the colleges and the city’s botanical gardens remained in view from the canal and we were greeted by the squaks of local ducks and the rings of church bells. For a moment there I could imagine Lewis Carrol rowing Alice Liddel up the very canal I was on, telling her about the whimsical adventures of a girl named Alice in a secret underground world known as Wonderland. The moment didn’t last long, however, as I was quickly forced back to reality after realising we had hit a tree with our boat . . . and possibly a duck.

Canal Views

View from the Canal

With our boating adventure complete, we lightly jogged back about a mile to the train station in order to catch our very-full train back to London Waterloo.  Despite being laden with tourists and exchange students, there are glimpses of Oxford’s Victorian splendor still present within the compact city.  The history, architecture and gardens give it a grand presence that would be difficult for other college towns to compete with.  Its location make it a perfect day trip from London and will ensure its popularity with tourists for decades to come.